Hair Dye Numbers Explained: Which Shade Covers Grey Hair?

Italian hair dye numbers (brands such as Alfaparf, Fanola or Framesi) follow one format: [level] . [tone]. To cover grey hair, pick a shade with .0 (Natural / Neutral) — especially double-zero codes like 4.00 or 5.00, which carry double pigment and stronger penetration. Asian grey hair is thick and resistant, so a fashion tone such as Ash or Copper on its own will not cover it properly.

How to read the code: level before the dot, tone after it

The format is always written as [level number] . [tone number]. The number before the dot sets how dark or light the shade is; the number after the dot sets the reflection you see under light.

Level (before the dot)

• 1 = Black
• 3 = Dark Brown — the natural colour of most Asian hair
• 4 = Medium Brown — the most suitable natural shade for covering grey
• 5 = Light Brown
• 6 and above = Blonde tones

Tone (after the dot)

• .0 = Natural / Neutral (a must for grey coverage)
• .1 = Ash (blue/green base, cancels rust and orange)
• .2 = Violet (cancels yellow)
• .3 = Gold (adds shine and a lively look)
• .4 = Copper
• .5 = Mahogany
• .6 = Red

Which numbers work best on Asian grey hair?

Asian grey hair is usually thick, coarse and resistant. Pick the wrong number and the grey stays visible or the colour fades very fast. Match the option below to your goal.

Option A: full 100% coverage

When the grey is hard and evenly spread, a normal shade is not enough — you need an “Intense Natural” double-numbered shade.

• Best codes: 4.00 or 5.00 (look for the two zeros at the end).
• Why: the double zero (.00) means double pigment, and the penetration is strong enough to get into the thicker Asian cuticle.
• Recommendation: 4.00 is the safest for a look that matches original Asian hair; 5.00 gives a softer brown that is not too dark.

Option B: fashion brown (chocolate / coffee)

Grey hair has no pigment. Apply a fashion tone such as Ash or Copper straight onto grey and the colour looks thin or plain odd, so you must mix it with a natural base.

• Best codes: 5.3 (golden brown) or 5.35.
• How to mix (important): do not use a full tube of fashion colour on its own.
  • Formula: ½ tube 5.0 (Natural) + ½ tube 5.3 (fashion tone).
  • Why: 5.0 handles the grey coverage while 5.3 adds the glow so the hair does not look dull.

Option C: cool ash brown

Be careful with Ash (.1) on grey — get it wrong and the hair turns mossy green or dull grey. Use 5.0 (50%) + 5.1 (50%); the natural (.0) holds the Ash so the grey is covered neatly and the tone still looks good.

Quick reference for Asian hair

• Natural black / original look: 3.0 or 4.0 — looks like the original Asian hair colour, not a fake flat black.
• Coarse, resistant grey: 4.00 or 5.00 — double pigment with strong penetration for thick hair.
• Warm fashion brown: 5.3 mixed with 5.0 — the gold reflection (.3) brightens the face instead of leaving it dull.
• Cool brown (Ash): 5.1 mixed with 5.0 — the .0 keeps the hair from turning green.

Salon pro tips (do not skip)

1. Use Peroxide / Developer 20 Vol (6%): do not waste time with 10 Vol. Asian hair needs 20 Vol (6%) to open the thicker cuticle so the colour goes in deep.
2. Processing time: leave it on for 40–45 minutes. Do not rinse early — grey hair needs a little longer to take the colour fully.
3. Stay away from Level 1 (jet black): avoid 1.0 or 1.1. The hair ends up looking hard, as if it were polished with shoe polish; it looks fake and it makes age lines and wrinkles on the face stand out more.

Summary

Grey coverage comes down to the numbers: the level before the dot sets depth, the tone after the dot sets reflection, and you always need .0 for coverage — 4.00 or 5.00 for resistant grey, or 5.0 mixed with 5.3 for a warm fashion brown. WhatsApp us for a consultation, or view the product page to pick your shades.